|
|
|
|
Tidal Pool Watercolour 9" x 12" Sharon - Apsley Acers Studio This painting from 1981 celebrated my fascination with tidal pools in Newfoundland. While Tom worked in the field, my son Myke, then 8 and I had the priviledge to wander at will. We hiked through Gros Morne with its fjordy type scenery; enjoyed a clam bake and fresh jigged cod stew with the Child's at Little Bay Harbour, saturated every possible pore in my body with fresh caught crab legs dipped in garlic butter at Springdale and had my first ever wild harvested mussels. The centre of this painting has a mussel shell, it is just a half and is old as it is starting to bleach with the sun. |
||||
Healthy wild mussels are a beautiful shade of blue, they cling tenaciously to rocks and often are covered with barnacles. They are delicious. |
||||
![]() The other day Tom and I were down to Peterborough to shop and one of the items which caught our fancy were some fresh mussels - so home they came packed in ice - my mouth waters still at the thought ;-) I had also purchased a delicious ripe olive focassia to dip into the broth - mmmmmmm Definately a do again supper! Is your mouth watering? So off to the interent I wandered to see if a recipe there caught my fancy. The first page up was about how mussels are now farmed very educational. The recipe I finally decided on was delicious: 2T olive oil 2T butter 3 fresh cloves of garlic - minced 1 small onion - chopped 1 smaller carrot - peeled - chopped 2T fresh parsley chopped 1.5T basil 1t oregano pinch of pepper 1 cup - dry white wine In a largish pot - which will hold a pound bag of mussels I sauted the first 9 ingrediants for a minute - then put the lid on and simmered 10 mins. longer. Turning up to high; I added the wine and mussels and stirred till the liquid was boiling - lowered the heat once more, covered and simmered another 10 minutes; kept stirring every so often so all the mussels had a chance to meld with the delicious broth. Quickly divided into 2 bowls - served with the rest of the chilled white wine and a the crusty ripe olive focassia bread. MMmmmm - good! |
||||
| Now things get interesting - as always when I wander looking for a specific item on the web - Google graciously hands me a site which I just cannot afford to pass by. Such was the case with my mussel searching adventure..
Along came a wonderful site all bout a couple who sea kayaked fro Kuujjuaq at the top of Quebec - Ungava Bay around the top of Labrador and the magnificent Tournegat Mountains with their high cliffs and Fjords - to Hebron - to the Okak Bay Islands to Nain. In 1995; just after Voissey's Bay was discovered at Nain, Labrador there was a mad rush by many companies to first stake and then prospect in that same general area - as quickly as possible with high hopes of finding a deposit of similar spectacular richness. Tom was hired to work in Labrador from mid-June to mid-September by his friend Terry Ryan who was heading up the exploration for their blocks of claims. Tom was also offered to choose to hire who ever he wished for an assisstant. He choose me. To this day that summer is right up there as one of the true unbelievably wonderful highlights of my life. A few summers earlier I had spent a few weeks just north and west of Kuujjuaq with Tom at Soucey Lake - that was my first taste of the treeless barren lands of the tundra - It was love at first sight. Now to have the opportunity of a three month job wandering northwards from Goose Bay, to Nain - to prospect several of the islands off of Nain in a fishing long-liner with the youngest handsomest blue-eyed Inuit boat captain I had ever met "Joey" ( his grandmother had been Irish and lived in Kuujjuaq - she also taught him to cook - so each night when we got back to the boat he have supper ready for us..) amidst icebergs - all sorts of sea life - eating fresh caught arctic char - seal - sea duck eggs from the island rookeries - it was a wild feast never since repeated. Oops I digress. As the ice left and snow melted we went further north and were based at Nain Bay by the end of June.
We always put up our tent a bit away from the others as I needed the fresh air and no contaminents in my world so I could stay healty and useful. The only real negative was I had to use the loo after someone had sprayed for wasps - it put me down for almost a week. Other than that I had a wonderful summer with no other problems. |
||||
| A very sheltered harbour where we went out each day by helicopter for a days work:
This photo was taken from our tent door. The first tent you see was on a bit of a low spot. Full moon and high tide of the year had them flooded with about 8" of sea water . Fortunately they had cots that allowed them to sleep dry. The brownish tan tent with several peaks is the office and 'boss" tent filled with more maps than people. The longish grass is actually a grain and was/is used for flour in Iceland. It wasn't quite ripe - I would have like to have tried some.
We all look alike - but this was our home for the summer - our first time with an aluminum frame - once you understand the colour coding of the pieces - putting it up moves quickly; easily put up and down and was very comfortable ( up till now we have used trees for poles) - but as these are few and far between in the areas we are working - this frame was much more practical - when someone comes to visit they say "knock - knock" as there is no way to make an arrival sound with out a hard door ;-)) The rocks out in the water behind the tent at low tide had mussels growing wild on them - unfortunately too deep a channel between me and them ;-( From this site; Tom and I went off to what I call " the wind tunnel of hell " for a few weeks - high up on one of the Kiglaipait Mountains. A story for another time. Afterwards the world became more sane; the warmth arrived further north - the bays opened up and we were all off to Okak Bay. If you read the above Sea Kayak adventure names should be sounding familiar by now ;-) |
||||
![]() If this beach had palm trees and was 30 degrees F warmer it would be packed with tourists. As you see the tide is out - The very basic cabin below was rented by the company for a few weeks - it is the winter hunt camp of the Labrador Member of Parliament - Mr. William Anderson and extremely interesting Inuit who was there when we arrived with his wife Jan who was originally from Ontario - the were there to greet us and see that all needed was fine . His family was originally from Okak Bay - prior to resettlement down to Nain. They were up gathering food for the community freezer at Nain. The community has one large walk in freezer which all the hunters of the village keep stocked. He had been drying/smoking arctic char with a homemade system using ground birch for smoke and graciously offered us all some of the finished product when we arived. Each evening just prior to the Anderson's departure; the fellows who enjoyed fishing would spend a few hours after work at high tide catching arctic char - a delicious fish - red like salmon but nicer . We ate many but most got packed in ice to be taken south to the freezer. One rainy day I sat and read the cabin diary - short excerpts made by Inuit hunters out in winter on snowmobiles - a blizzard would come up - they'd be several hundred miles away from Nain - they'd head for the Anderson camp, as always it had dry wood for a fire and food of some sort if needed. Sometimes people would be there several days before the weather lifted. You could hear the relief in their words having this safe haven to be enjoyed.
This photo was after we'd set up camp - Tom and I were lucky; we got to sleep in one of the two bedrooms in the cabin which also served as a cook house. The fuel drums are for the helicopter in which we all go in pairs each morning to work. Four people at a time - 2 teams get taken with their survival gear and work gear. Each team works miles apart - on the way into your area you pick a spot down in the valley where you "think" you will end - up after your days traverse - a place where the helicopter can land - your emergency gear gets dropped there ( a tent and a bit of grub ) - then the helicopter takes you to the top of a hill/mtn - like the one seen in the above photo way off in the mist. We are dropped there and with maps; we physically check out all the promising rock showings and take labelled samples if needed - for the whole day we decended the mountain. Sometimes we split for the morning and meet up for lunch - other times we work near enough that we can see each other. Depends on how much has to be done. Late in the day we are at the bottom of the hill/mtn and find the gear and listen for our taxi. Not once was the weather bad enough, nor a mechanical problem that it didn't come. |
||||
![]() The were some of the neatest signs of the last ice age. These glacier striations (the lines in the rocks left by the glacier - several miles thick - as it moved) and glacier eratics (the boulders and stones) - sometimes a huge boulder would be perched like a grand piano on tiny rocks high enough you could see under it. Or enormous house sized boulders perched on the edge of a steep cliff - looking like one push would make them tumble down to the valley below. The mtns tops are rounded and strewn with boulders as you can see better in the photo below. |
||||
![]() The scenery was amazing - so difficult to judge distance with no trees. Each time you came to a precipace the view was more wonderful than the one before ! Each day we'd set down on the top of a new mtn and work our way down to the valley below - where there was always a river or a lake which over the years had made the valley deep - and the views always were spectacular. |
||||
![]() Caribou Footprints Somedays we'd come across the odd straggler from a caribou herd - I would sit on a boulder while it passed often within 10 feet of me. I'd click my tonque and say hello - introduced myself and would proceed to tell this magnificent creature how pleased I was to have the pleasure of being on it's home turf :-) They would stop and look at me - sort of questioning in their eyes and then turn and begin once more loping on their way. Being the only female in base camp - I often made a point to get up early to use the outdoor loo - freshen -up before hoards of men arrived. This was especially so at Okak Bay. One morning about 6 am, I was going down to the beach and movement off in the distance caught my eye.
My first thought southern girl brain that I have - was horses - quickly remedied to caribou - They were streaming out of that far valley by the thousands, most headed to the salty water and just stood for hours - I am sure it removed ticks and felt good as they stayed for awhile knee deep in the water - then they slowly started in the direction towards our camp - grazing on the salt grass areas as they came. This was part of the George River herd.
Here they are still appearing down the far valley - the first batch are much closer. For several days they grazed and passed camp - mainly mothers, yearlings and this year's young. This was taken from the 2nd bench where the camp was situated. Amazingly the helicopter didn't even bother them. This was one part of the herd - about 14,000 slowly went by - just like being in the middle of a National Geographic film. When William Armstrong decided to take some fresh meat to Nain - he shot and butchered a couple of yearlings. The others just came to watch to see why one of their own had fallen - the noise didn't make them run. An expert in dealing with wild life - he froze the skins to take back to Nain - he left us a large roast ( the fresh meat was appreciated as all our supplies came frozen from Goose Bay ) - which we slow cooked all day in a huge lidded cast iron pot with all sorts of vegetables all day on the wood stove. Delicious.
This is a closer view from the above photo - Prior to the trip I hemmed and hawed whether I was going to bring my heavy big telephoto lens and tripod - needless to say I kicked myself at this time. I was just in heaven experiencing this once in a lifetime unique experience in person but knew that they would all be just dots in my photos. When I got my computer and scanner lo and behold I discovered that when good photos get scanned in at say 400 dpi all sorts of details come into being. Thus I can show you more than dots ;-))) NOW - just when you think this tale can't get more exciting - Tah dah! it does.. Remember my saying that William Anderson's family had originally come from Okak Bay? Well way back in 1951 - 30 years before this tale began; Tom was just a young lad fresh out of university at the age of 24 a bonified geologist. The company he was working for - was to be working out of Kuujjuaq for the summer - towards "Soucey Lake" In their infinate wisdow the company made a deal which they thought was a better price than by plane - thus the crew was sent by boat up the coast of Labrador to Fort Chimo - now known as Kuujjuaq. |
||||
![]() The company he was working for hired a the MV-Trepassy to take the crew, cook, supplies and equipment up the Labrador coast from N. Sydney to Fort Chimo now known as Kuujjuaq. They left on June 2nd - and finally arrived at their destination July 8th. The sea ice was late leaving and the boat had to fight its way up the coast. Tom is the only person NOT looking at the camera.
We ( Tom and I) were up in "the wind tunnel from hell" on one of the Kiglaipait Mtns. for a few weeks mid - July - each day we had to climb higher up a large snow area to the showing we were mapping. There was still a huge ice tunnel covering a fast moving stream near camp. The helicopter had to bring us wood logs up from the valley in a sling to keep our stove going as it was chilly at night - as I said earlier that few weeks is another story for another time.. |
||||
![]() Tom ended up sending some of the photos he had taken on this 1951 journey back to William Anderson - as through conversation they had discovered that the Inuit who had visited the boat in 1951 when it was near Okak Bay - as only Inuit left there at that time was William's family and Tom had taken photos of his grandparents - can you imagine - wow - take a look at the skin kayak - the bone harpoon - the distinct paddle design and the fur seat pelt. We have serveral of the "hats" put away from that era. Their name escapes at the moment. |
||||
![]() This is one of Tom's Torngat photos - I was so hoping to get the chance to see Hebron and this tall fjiordy mountain range. We have a pact - should we ever win the lottery - Nain - Hebron and the Torngats are the trip we want to take. It is too bad we are too old for a sea kajak trip like the couple made at the start of this missive - as that would have been my choice if I were younger. |
||||
![]() When we were prospecting the island off of Nain we saw some magnificent bergs. One rminded me of a huge sail boat with several tall masts. We also went up to small growlers - for ice for the on deck 4' x 4' x4') ice chest -I has my first drink with ice berg ice chunks - We also came home with every rope on the boat festooned with arctic char - drying in the cold sunny air to be put in the community freezer in Nain - while we were prospecting Joey our captain was constantly hunting or fishing. |
||||
|
||||
![]()
Isn't he adorable? One of those fellows who ages graciously and still looks great ;-)) |
||||
| So there we are another long take with so many bits which tied together - I hope you enjoyed this wander - check often as I add bits and pieces at the darndest times.
Walk in Peace in the warmth of Grandfather Sun's Smile. Sharon "Touch the Earth Listen to the Rocks They Remember . . . " If you have any comments or would like to contact me: birzz@yahoo.com |
||||